Tuesday, February 19, 2013

Sampson and Bitter Guana Cays

While in Vero Beach, Bob worked hard to get the SSB radio (a radio similar to a HAM radio) up and running. This was a long process which had started with installing a grounding plate on the hull on the hard, having an insulator installed on the backstay when the rigging was redone in Morehead City, creating a grounding system with copper foil in the bowels of the boat and hours figuring out how to make the whole system work. All this allows us to listen to the Chris Parker Radio program each morning giving the weather, geared for sailors. We had been listening for days to the growing speculation that serious weather was approaching. Through conversations with Mark C and others, we learned that Sampson Cay was a good harbor with good holding. In study, the harbor looked well protected from the north, where most bad weather comes from, and is adjacent the Sampson Cay Marina if things look really bad.

We pulled anchor on Friday morning and headed north. It was only a five mile trip but we arrived feeling beat up, wet and tired. The wind wasn’t supposed to have started yet, but it certainly was windy. We did a little snorkeling and settled in for the evening. We shortened the chain a bit to avoid a discarded dredge bucket and chatted with the one other boat in the anchorage. He had made a reservation at the marina but was hoping to ride out the storm without the expense.  That morning Chris Parker had announced that he was more and more confident that there would be a westerly component to the coming system, which would leave us exposed. If this came at low tide, we probably didn’t have enough depth to exit.  He suggested that we listen to Chris again in the morning and then make a decision on moving into the marina. One of our many guide books had listed the marina cost at $2.50 per foot, which is quite steep, so we were not too excited about the stay. By 7:30 Saturday morning, after listening to the radio, we knew the wind would have a strong westerly component. This was going to be rough. We had just decided to call at 8 when the boat next to us hailed the marina. He was headed in. We hailed immediately after and were told the marina was full. There was no room for us. The guy headed in offered to let us raft up with him, but to no avail. He then offered to let the kids and I bunk on his boat. We moved the boat as far in to the cove as we could and let out all our chain.

The wind was not too bad yet so we decided to check out the marina, the marina store and ask if by any chance there were any cancellations. We piled into the dinghy and entered the cut into the marina. The difference between the wailing wind and the peace and quiet within was vast. I was let out at the dock and made my way to the store. As I walked in, the lady behind the counter asked “Are you the one with the kids?” I was a little taken aback, how did she know I had kids? I said yes, and asked her if we were blocking the way to the marina. She responded that they had a space for us. I was a little confused but decided to run with it. The dockmaster, Fly, came in and said Bob was waiting for me at the gas dock. We fetched Midwatch and settled in at the marina.

I made my way back to the office to check in, $4/foot (Wholly S#$T!) but hey, we were here and would get to sleep that night. As the day unraveled, the drama that had occurred within the marina was revealed to us. We learned that all in the marina knew there was a family in the boat outside and knew that we had been turned down. At least three boats, that we are aware of, had gone to talk to the managers, requesting we be allowed to enter the marina. At least one threatened to leave and never come back.  We were ignorant of the whole thing.

We ended up staying a second night, partially because the wind was still strong, but also because, we weren’t really sure we could safely get off the dock. We got a well-deserved rest and were able to explore a beautiful island. Great fun was had by all. Word has it, that the marina is owned by some wealthy individual who isn’t too keen on having a lot of people around, hence the “we’re full” statement. Either way, except for the price, I’d go back in a minute. It was a beautiful, well maintained and comfortable spot. And a good place to spend a few cool and windy days.

Weather-enforced relaxation
A Dragon!
Finn on the beach at Sampson Cay
After half hour of trying and very careful instructions from Bob, Anna was successful at catching a fish in her hand! She was very excited.

 
Anna caught a fish in her hand!


After leaving Sampson Cay, we headed to Bitter Guana Cay, a sanctuary for endangered Exuma Iguanas. We thoroughly explored the island and had a great time. What a beautiful, wild spot.


Midwatch from the top of Bitter Guana Cay
An endangered Exuma Iguana
Beach Combers
Finn showing Bob the cave where the iguanas live
East side of Bitter Guana Cay
Our brave leader! (We were waiting in the dinghy to see what they would do.)



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